Midwest, part 1

I never anticipated that the best part of publishing a book wouldn't be the good reviews, readings, or invitations to literary festivals. The best part isn't seeing a gorgeous book with your name on it on the new fiction shelf at Borders (although that's pretty trippy too).No, the really trippy part is this: making new friends, and eventually counting them among my dearest, all because I wrote a book and somebody decided to publish it.P1010021

In August 2008 Maggie left a comment telling me how much she enjoyed Mary Modern, and when I visited her blog I found the best review I've ever gotten.  Maggie doesn't usually write about books on her blog, but this time she made an exception. She even took the book into the bathroom with her, and there can be no greater compliment than that.

So we emailed back and forth a bit, and then lost touch until last summer. Thanks to Twitter, I reconnected with Maggie and 'met' Sarah, the friend who'd recommended my novel in the first place. I got to meet Maggie and her family back in August when they came to New York on vacation, but this trip to Wisconsin last week was the first time I met Sarah in real life. She is so good at expressing herself online that I kept having to remind myself that we hadn't ever had a conversation in person before. (You know how it is if you've ever met an internet acquaintance in real life--they're never quite how you pictured them, not necessarily looks-wise, but the way they speak and carry themselves and whatnot. Not Sarah!)

I also wondered how or if we ever could have met in a time before the internet. I like to think that if we'd lived on the far end of the twentieth century we would have written each other letters, but obviously it wouldn't have been the same--it would have taken us months to iron out a visit by mail, if we'd ever found the opportunity to meet at all, and our (sometimes rapid-fire) email correspondence is probably equivalent, wordcount-wise, to a pen-pal friendship over the course of ten years. Every time their names pop up in my inbox I feel amazed and grateful all over again.

We knit and talked about books and writing and had a sleepover and watched classic 80s movies (I fell asleep midway through The Neverending Story—haha!—but The Goonies was every bit as awesome as I remembered it), and I loved spending time with Maggie's daughters. We fondled beautiful yarns at The Sow's Ear and had delicious fancy coffees afterwards. (The Sow's Ear is far and away the coolest yarn shop I've ever been to--huge selection of great yarns and really nice staff, like Brooklyn General, but with coffee and treats!)

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Locally produced sock yarn from Sun Valley Fibers.

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And before I left Maggie and I went to Madison to sample the amazing local cheeses at Fromagination (she knows a lot about Wisconsin artisanal cheeses, having recently published an article on the subject) and she took me on a tour of UW Madison. I got to see Sarah and her husband Matt one more time for pizza and hot chocolate before I left; and then the next day I hopped on a bus to Minneapolis to visit Jill, and I also did a really fun reading at Common Good Books. Will blog about that next time.

(Edit, 2013: It's strange to be reformatting this entry for my new blog, having very happily not eaten cheese in 2 1/2 years. I won't knowingly eat it again, and for some very good reasons why, read my post on cheese addiction.)

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Adventures in Peru: Machu Picchu

This entry's going to be mostly pictures because really, what more can I say? You expect that Machu Picchu will blow your mind, and it doesn't disappoint.

This wasn't a big drop, but it was just high enough that Kate was nervous and begged Elliot not to goof around, and of course he didn't listen.

The Inca Bridge.

When we sat down to eat lunch I noticed there were gobs of greasy black stuff all over my face, and I had no idea where it had come from. I asked Kate why she hadn't told me sooner that there was dirt on my face, and she said, 'Why would I help you when I can laugh at you?' (And she did.)

We didn't arrive early enough to climb Huayna Picchu, the mountain perched right over the city that you see in all the photographs (sounds like you have to arrive before dawn, because they only let 400 people up per day), so we did Machu Picchu (the mountain the city is named after; 'Machu Picchu' means 'old mountain') instead--it's a lot higher, and took about three and a half hours round trip.  I was short of breath and lagging behind the whole way up, but MAN, was the view ever worth it. You can just tell how exhilarated we all felt:

(We were long-arming it because Jill wasn't with us.)  In this second shot we were going for a view of the city in the background, but you can only see the tip of Huayna Picchu.

If you're planning a trip to Machu Picchu you should consider hiking Machu Picchu instead of Huayna Picchu, because we didn't see nearly as many people as we would have had we been able to climb the latter, and I can't imagine the view from Huayna Picchu can compare.

After a long and happy day we returned to Aguas Calientes for fruit smoothies, then took the evening train back to Ollantaytambo, followed by an overnight bus to Puno.

Next post: Lake Titicaca.

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Adventures in Peru: the Sacred Valley

The Sacred Valley.

On the 23rd we started off with a nice long walk through the ruins at Pisac. A footpath leads you along the hills above the Sacred Valley, past sweeping agricultural steppes and the ruins of houses, temples, and defensive structures.

We were out all morning, but it wasn't very strenuous because the footpath through the ruins is fairly flat, and then there's a rather steep and windy decline back into the town of Pisac (which left me with slightly wobbly knees, but not winded).

We went through this cave passageway towards the beginning of the Pisac walk.

We stopped to clamber up to this watchtower, while Kate took photos from the top of a staircase opposite.

...and to give you a better sense of perspective (Jill's down below).

Towards the end of the Pisac walk.

After Pisac, we made a brief stop at the salt mines at Maras. As Kate says, this has got to be the strangest tourist attraction ever. We sampled the water (yup, salty), took some photos, bought some toasted lima beans to snack on, and went on our merry way.

Then to Ollantaytambo, another important archaeological site. Amazingly massive stonework here too--Edison pointed out the quarry, which is three or so miles away if I remember correctly. You know how some nutty people claim aliens built the pyramids? Doesn't seem so nutty when you check out the size of these stones and how intricately they were fit together. The Incan engineers were good, but how could they have been that good?

Anyway, there was this central stepped space, vaguely resembling an amphitheatre, where the elevated classes would have assembled (highest class on the highest tier, etc.) to hear the king make his speeches; we went up the staircases and walked through the ruins situated higher up.

At the end of the day we found ourselves in town (Ollantaytambo, that is) for a quick dinner before the evening train to Aguas Calientes (the closest town to Machu Picchu). We were chatting with Edison, and he was asking Kate how we were all related. This is how she explained us: pointing to Elliot-- 'mi novio' -- to me -- 'mi hermana' -- to Jill -- 'mi suegra' [mother-in-law] -- and then to Spencer: 'mi nada!'  She just couldn't remember the word for brother-in-law, but it came out sounding really mean (although we got a good laugh out of it).

And here is a picture of Elliot mooning a busful of Japanese tourists.

Next post: MACHU PICCHU!

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Adventures in Peru: Cusco

There are always local ladies available for a photo op. I guess Kate took this one at a distance so she wouldn't have to pay up.

Once we all met up in Lima it was time for the touristy bit, so we flew to Cusco and met our new guide, Edison, at the airport. We were booked into the loveliest guesthouse: there was a gorgeous courtyard full of flowers (not to mention the swing) and a terrific view of the city from the balcony outside our rooms. We stayed in the old section of the city, all windy cobblestoned streets and quaint churches and whatnot--even the touristy streets weren't as annoying as we were expecting. I wish we could have stayed in Cusco longer than one night.

'It's Jesus on a swing!'

We had coca tea (alleviates symptoms of altitude sickness) at the guesthouse before going on a little walk through town to the Church of Santo Domingo, which was built on the Incan Temple of the Sun ('Coricancha'). Incan stonework juxtaposed with all the usual Catholic art and pomp.

One of my very favorite pictures from this trip.

The afternoon was a whirlwind of four Inca sites--Sacsayhuaman (a fortress with zig-zagging walls made of mind-blowingly huge stones), Q'enko (a religious site where animals were sacrificed to predict the harvest), Pukapukara (mostly a residential complex, if I remember correctly), and Tambomachay (another religious site featuring fountains from cold springs--I didn't appreciate this one as much because it was the end of the day and the site was really crowded).A couple of shots at Sacsayhuaman (I giggled for ages at this, and then I realized that EVERYONE laughs at it, and felt stupid):

Spencer looking epic. (Not posed.)

On the hill between Sacsayhuaman and Q'enko was a park with a big ol' statue of Jesus, where lots of people were out flying kites. (It was a Sunday afternoon. How do I remember this? I was sad because I couldn't visit the yarn store Mary Jane had suggested!)

Q'enko. There's a slab in this cave where bodies would have been laid out.

Pukapukara. Glorious panoramic view from the top.

I forgot to mention a funny story from way back at Sechin. Kate had gotten one of those nifty platypus water bags that go in a backpack and have a long straw with a thingy you gently bite down on to release the water, and when she laid it on the floor outside the restroom at the museum a hairless dog came up and licked it. She could have tried to disinfect it, but decided to ask Elliot to bring her a new mouthpiece. We told Spencer what happened ('The hairless dog was sucking my nip!'), and he goes, 'I got my rabies shot, girl! I'm bulletproof!' (Which is something you should not say unless you are trying to jinx yourself.)Next post: Pisac, the Salt Mines, and Ollantaytambo.

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Harmony Homestead Dispatch #10

The view from my tent.

I had such an awesome time in Vermont this summer that I just had to go back for a couple weeks in September. (The original plan was to move up there, but now I've re-caught the travel bug, so it's on the back burner for now.)The summer was definitely over and all my dear WWOOFers had gone, so the mood on the farm wasn't festive like it had been, but it was wonderful to be back with Gail and Paul and of course I made new friends--especially Hank, who could always be relied upon for interesting philosophical conversation and who brought me pie when I was having a bad day. Harmony Homestead attracts such kind and thoughtful people because that's just the sort of people Paul and Gail are.

I spent more time with the animals on this visit, and it felt GREAT to be harvesting and eating all the stuff I'd planted from seed back in June and July--polebeans, bush beans, carrots, romaine and magenta lettuce, onions, beets, kohlrabi, acorn squash...

Cosmic purple, baby! (They're only purple on the outside though.)

The pumpkin patch is taking over.

Jericho romaine. (Don't you really want a salad now?)

This is kohlrabi, though you'd be forgiven for thinking it only grows on Mars.

...and I got to press apples for cider!  Gail and Paul are coming down for my launch party this weekend and they're bringing a gallon we made last week. HOORAY!

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Adventures in Peru: back to Lima

'I never made it to Peru. I went to heaven instead.'(--Elliot and Spencer's granddad, who was about to leave for South America but met their grandmother and decided not to go. How adorable is that?)

(The Convento de San Francisco--well worth a visit for the bone arrangements in the crypts. Beautiful tilework too, but that won't make you shiver.)So after four awesome days in the jungle we (very reluctantly, in my case) took the boat back to Iquitos for the night, then flew back to Lima in the morning and did some sightseeing before meeting up with Spencer for dinner. (Elliot arrived in the middle of the night.)

Like I said, we were a bit 'huaca-ed out', but Huaca Pucllana was easy to get to and we thought it would be neat to see one in the middle of the city.  And of course it was.

I liked Lima well enough as far as capitals go, but whenever we found ourselves back in the city it was always with thoughts of where we were off to next (or, on our last day, all the fun stuff we had just seen and done).

This handprint is well over a thousand years old. (The Lima culture, which built the huaca, dates from 200-700 A.D.)And now for a glimpse of the infamous Peruvian hairless dog:

Fawkes & Ibis, Lima style--a stall at the night market at Kennedy Park (yeah, I think that's it) where I picked up a couple of antique postcards. Very proud of myself for offering fifteen soles (in Spanish) after he asked for twenty.And a couple photos taken outside the cathedral:

Jill, Elliot and Kate after our visit to the San Franciscan Monastery.

Next post: Cuzco!

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Adventures in Peru: the Amazon, part 3

Every meal we had a different kind of freshly squeezed juice. Here we had cocona (peach tomato). Did I mention how amazing the food is at Otorongo Lodge?

Oscar and Jill with the resident toucan, who is quite fond of nipping at people's heels.

On our second night we went looking for pink river dolphins, which I was skeptical about--yeah right, and then we'll go find some unicorns--but sure enough, we saw plenty of them. They're much larger and not nearly as graceful as gray river dolphins, and when they die they're no longer pink (don't ask us how we know...ygggh!)

Anyway, Oscar told us this local legend about the pink river dolphins: the Dolphin King sometimes steals a woman and takes her down to live with him in his underwater palace, or some such. As the sun was setting Kate, Jill, and Oscar went for a swim in the river, and we had a nice big laugh at the thought of Jill getting spirited away by a big pink dolphin.

(Unintentionally artsy-fartsy. Kate took this one, and a lot of other photos I'm posting. She and Spencer have really nice cameras--Spencer's especially--which made me realize just how stinky mine is. I know what I'm asking Santa for this year.)On our third evening we walked to the nearest village. The people there live very simply--most of them basically live in shacks--but they seem really happy.  Everyone was out and about, chatting and playing bingo and soccer and volleyball.  They only have electricity for a few hours in the evening, so at six o'clock when the TV in the grocery store switched on, some people came over to stand in the doorway and watch.  Most people stuck with their games though.

On our last morning we went looking for gray river dolphins, and saw a few more pink ones too. This family of fishermen had such a huge catch that we motored over so Randy could help them haul it in, and Oscar showed us a catfish and vampire fish that had gotten mixed in with the others.

Next post: back to Lima!

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Adventures in Peru: the Amazon, part 2

P1000356Me and Kate on a 'Bob Marley tree.'

It's funny how quickly you can fall into a comfortable routine. We would have breakfast, head out on a morning excursion, come back for lunch around 1, have a siesta (in the hammock room, ahhhhhh) until 4, then go out on a shorter excursion before dinner at 7. Two of the three nights we went out after dinner as well, and found several species of tarantula and tree frog. It always amazed us how adept Oscar and Randy were at spotting wildlife, even from hundreds of feet away.
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Fuzzy sloth bottom!  Kate took this photo with her fancy new camera--this sloth was really high up in the trees.

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Remember that movie Arachnophobia? Creeped the heck out of me when I was a kid. And this tarantula was a stone's throw from our beds...
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A red-backed poison tree frog, which we also spotted at night.
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Jill catches a piranha.

Next post: more adorable Peruvian kiddies, and Jill's tryst with the Dolphin King.

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Adventures in Peru: the Amazon, part 1

A colorful crush of traffic on the way into Iquitos.

I enjoyed every minute we spent in Peru, but our time in the Amazon was particularly special. Kate, Jill and I took the overnight bus from Trujillo back to Lima, then flew to Iquitos, which is where you take the boat into the jungle. (You pass through a market on your way to the dock, and our guide pointed out a stall selling weevil shishkebabs. Needless to say, I had no wish to linger.)We were trying to decide between two tour operators the night before we left, one kinda slick and touristy but with whom we knew more what to expect, and in the end we went (and were really happy) with the alternative, Otorongo Expeditions. The jungle lodge is really quaint and peaceful and comfortable, the owners and staff are fantastic (especially Oscar, our guide), every meal was vegetarian-friendly and thoroughly delicious, and we saw amazing wildlife on every excursion. We can't recommend Otorongo highly enough.Taking the (usually horse-powered) sugar cane press for a spin at the rum factory on our way to the lodge. Afterwards we got a taste test, and as you can see Kate didn't like it as much as I did:Below: the walkway between the dining and guest rooms at the lodge; the resident macaws; dragon's blood, good for all sorts of skin ailments; breadfruit.

Swaying in the hammock room at the lodge listening to all those layers of sound coming from the forest around us--the calls of birds, insects, frogs, and monkeys--oh, it was one of the most tranquil experiences of my life!

Reading The Time Machine in my favorite place.

Next post: wildlife photos!

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Adventures in Peru: North of Lima, part 2

(North of Lima, part 1.)We based ourselves in Trujillo for Chan Chan, Huaca de la Luna, and el Brujo; the first two sites are a short collectivo ride (i.e., local minibus service) outside the city, and el Brujo is about an hour distant. There isn't a heck of a lot going on in Trujillo itself, although there was quite a bit of interesting colonial architecture.

One of many ornate screened balconies where a lady might look out on the street without being seen from below.

One evening we wandered into the courtyard of a private club.

Most memorable, however, is the sketchy guesthouse in which we caught one of the desk clerks in our bathroom, claiming to be cleaning it at six o'clock in the evening (naturally, with no cleaning products to hand). Nothing was missing from the room, but I was still suspicious. 'He was sticking his nose in our underwear,' I said. 'It's the only logical explanation.'Chan Chan, built by the Chimú in the ninth century, was a vast city constructed entirely of adobe. Plentiful pelican, fish, and otter motifs, and the diamond-shaped walls (fishing nets!), show how the Chimú appreciated what the sea provided.(See the otters on the walls?)The next day we did Huaca de la Luna (Moon Handbooks link here), the 'Temple of the Moon.' I think this was our favorite archaeological site (it was definitely mine)--fascinating polychrome wall reliefs (giant spiders, vanquished warriors in neck chains being led to sacrifice), excellent guide, totally adorable Peruvian schoolgirls. There are two huge adobe structures here, both constructed by the Moche people layer upon layer over successive generations during the first millennium A.D.--the Temple of the Moon was used for religious and ceremonial purposes, the nearby Temple of the Sun for the military and administrative stuff. The Temple of the Sun, looted by the conquistadores, is still undergoing excavation work and isn't yet open to the public. Children used to play soccer on the sand before these ruins were discovered underneath.I know this shot must look kind of posed and phony, but honestly it isn't--our guide was about to snap a photo of the three of us, and these adorable little girls were shyly watching on, and we invited them to come over.I also took a panorama at Huaca de la Luna--I don't know why it's playing so jerkily, but you get the idea:By our last day in Trujillo we were a little bit ruined out, but el Brujo (another city constructed by the Moche between 1400 and 2000 years ago) was still very much worth the visit, particularly for the Señora de Cao, a young woman who was evidently a very powerful political leader. Her mummy was discovered in 2006 along with a fifteen-year-old handmaiden sacrificed presumably to tend to her needs in the afterlife; experts concluded the Señora had died in childbirth around the age of twenty.

What the walls probably would have looked like a millennium and a half ago. If I remember correctly, this is Ayapec, 'the great decapitator.' Eep!

The brand-new museum at el Brujo houses the mummy of the Señora de Cao, and you can still see the undulating tattoos on her arms. I was really fascinated to discover that when you look into the glass case you aren't actually looking at the Señora, but at a mirror image; the mummy is lying safely out of sight. I was trying to figure out why the sight of the mummy at Sechin bothered me so much when I was only in awe of the Señora--it must be because of who they were in life. The Señora was entombed in layers of precious cloth and gold baubles, while it seems cruel to display the body of the sacrificed girl when she'd already had to suffer that supreme indignity. Anywho.Next post: THE JUNGLE!

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Adventures in Peru: North of Lima, part 1

One of the ruins at Caral, a city over four thousand years old.

There were three phases to our adventure in Peru: first Kate and Jill and I spent four or so days doing the archaeological sites along the coast north of Lima; then the three of us took an overnight bus back to Lima followed by a flight to Iquitos, where we made arrangements for a stay at a lodge on the Amazon. There were four marvelous days in the jungle. Then we flew back to Lima to meet up with Elliot and Spencer, and we did the more touristy parts--Machu Picchu, Lake Titicaca, the Sacred Valley, etc.Anyway, we visited five pre-Incan archaeological sites on the first part of the trip: Caral, the oldest city in the Americas; Sechin, the home of a warlike culture dating between 1800 and 900BC; Chan Chan, the largest adobe city ever built; Huaca de la Luna, built by the Moche, who flourished during the first millennium A.D.; and el Brujo (also Moche), home of the tomb and mummy of the Señora de Cao--a powerful female ruler whose arm tattoos are still clearly visible. (More on her next time.)At Caral we met Nathalie, a lovely Frenchwoman who lived in Spain for many years and was traveling on her own for a few weeks before meeting up with her boyfriend. We took a taxi back into town together and had dinner at a little restaurant by the sea (which was a lot less picturesque than it sounds, but it was still a nice time).

Charming.

A view over the ruins at Sechin from the walkway that goes up the hill behind it and around the site.

Sechin was a much smaller site, and we were able to walk around without a guide. There's a small museum, and in the basement we were appalled to find the preserved body of a teenaged sacrificial victim stuffed on the bottom shelf of a rickety glass case. Jill was saying something about mummies actually being comforting to her somehow, not creepy, but then she amended her statement: 'Well, I didn't find her comforting because she was buried alive...' Her mouth was wide open. Taken with the bloodthirsty nature of the stone carvings that Sechin is known for, this one was certainly the most disturbing of our archaeological visits.

If you'd been unlucky enough to be born here three thousand years ago, this is the guy who would have chopped off your head to feed the sun god. Or maybe just for kicks.

And now for something completely different. We saw these signs on every bus:

("Only for number one.")

I must say this perplexed me greatly. Like, what if I can't help it?This was one of those situations where the sights blow you away but the towns you've got to sleep in aren't quite so amazing--although we did manage to find a friendly little spot in Barranca (our base for Caral) for jugo de piña and some breakfast cake.Next post: Chan Chan, Huaca de la Luna, and el Brujo.

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Harmony Homestead Dispatch #9

On my last day in Vermont, Paul and Niki and I met Michael (otherwise known as 'the boy with the long red hair') at his shop for lunch. He restores pianos in this spooky factory space built in 1904:

I found cool stuff inside besides the instruments.

Niki played this gorgeous piano dating from 1890, and nearly had a heart attack when I told her later that it costs $36,000!

This one's a pump organ, if I'm not mistaken.

After lunch at Wicksticker's (where, like I said, we had beer and peppermint schnapps on the house), Michael took me back to the shop for a little while, but it was too nice an afternoon to work. So we went for a swim.

Our favorite swimming spot on the Poultney River.

It was a perfect last day--at the end of it Gail made her sublimely delicious enchiladas, and we had this for dessert:(This holy mother of all fruit tarts is from a bakery in Middlebury, but she makes amazing desserts too. Gail is one of those enviable people who can, seemingly without effort, turn a random pile of raw ingredients into edible gold.)I'm going back to Vermont in a week or so, so I'll have more photos to post then!

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Home from Peru!

Welp, I'm back. It was such a fantastic trip that I felt none of the usual 'I've been gone long enough, I'll be glad to get home again.' I just feel melancholy.

Jill and Kate on the Amazon.

We saw and heard marvelous creatures in the jungle, oohed and ahhed at pink river dolphins making brief appearances above the surface of the Amazon, walked up and down temples where young girls were sacrificed to old gods, got all our bones jangled in tiny moto-taxis (I called them putt-putts), watched condors wheeling over Colca Canyon and climbed up Machu Picchu (the mountain the city is named after, that is). The food was far better than we were expecting (surprisingly veggie-friendly), and I've never laughed so hard in my life.

So here are some random highlights--I won't start blogging in earnest until next weekend, when I get to download Kate's pictures.

It vants to suck your blood.

[Oh, and for the benefit of those few readers--if any, bwahahaha --who are not related to me, I should clarify that Kate and I went with Kate's boyfriend Elliot, his mother Jill, and his brother Spencer. It was Jill and Kate and I for the first half--when we did a bunch of pre-Incan archaeological sites like Chan Chan and Huaca de la Luna, then spent four days at a jungle lodge on the Amazon--and then we went back to Lima to meet up with Elliot and Spencer, and that's when we did Machu Picchu and all that.]

This is what happens when you fall asleep in the taxi.At Machu Picchu. I don't know what is going on here.Spencer, Jill, and Elliot, waiting for our flight to Cuzco. Elliot finished Petty Magic on the trip. I get four and a half stars.Cool doorknocker in Trujillo, our base for exploring Huaca de la Luna and other archaeological sites. We disapprove of the Spaniards for all the disease and violence they wrought upon the natives, but must admit the colonial architecture is splendid.
I love this doorknocker in particular because of the ring. I wore my grandmother's ring on my finger for most of the trip because Lonely Planet says it's not a bad idea to invent a boyfriend or husband.
Kate: How's your marriage going?Me: Great! We never fight!

More soon.

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Harmony Homestead Dispatch #8

Nick and Niki with Lilypads.

The polebeans really took off once we got the teepees set up.Cattle crossing at the Larsons' farm. Oh, rural life.Here we are (Niki, Nick, Gail, and Paul) at our favorite snack stand, chowing down on the BEST sweet potato fries ever. Mr. Wicksticker's is set up in the owner's own front yard, and it's right down the road from our favorite swimming spot. Because we have gotten to be such frequent customers, Mark (a.k.a. Mr. Wicksticker--he also makes candles) has taken to giving us free stuff. That day we got a jug of his very own maple syrup (and we gave him some beer), and the day before I left he gave us beer and peppermint schnapps. (Yes, peppermint schnapps, at two in the afternoon.)Paul and Niki with Queenie, and Avalon peeking out from behind. I'd intended to take many more pictures of the animals, which I'll do when I get back in September.Kate and I are leaving for Peru today and I wasn't organized enough to autoblog this time, so the blog is going to be pretty quiet for the rest of this month. There'll be plenty to blog about when I get back!

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Harmony Homestead Dispatch #7

This isn't going to be a useful post or anything--just some photos of us all having too much fun.Paul makin' the bacon. (Yes, that is a mohawk'd Nick in the background. Ben had shaved his head the night before.)Ginevra and Niki were the pancake queens: blueberries and raspberries (from the garden), banana, and banana with chocolate chips! I'm not much for pancakes, but I think I ate more than anybody else that morning. They used pumpkin pie spice, which made them that much tastier.He's got pizzazz even while he's washing the dishes.More tomorrow!

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Harmony Homestead Dispatch #6

Well, I'm back in New Jersey for a few more days until we leave for Peru, and I'm missing Harmony Homestead terribly. Seven weeks passed in a blink!Whether we were working or playing, every minute was fun.We stopped for ice cream after an afternoon at the Manchester farmers' market (where Paul was playing) and a good long browse at Northshire Books (where Linsey picked up a blank book entitled The Wit and Wisdom of Sarah Palin. Bwahahahaha.) From left: Jasmin, Gail, Paul, Nick, Linsey, Niki, Sal, and on the bottom, Geneviève with Grace and Luna. If you look closely you can see that Sal isn't wearing any shoes. That's because his only pair got smelly beyond any possibility of continued wearing, so after ice cream we went to a shoe store, where they had JUST locked the door (it was about 7pm by then). The woman looked down at his feet, unlocked the door again, and ushered him inside. The rest of us sat in the car and laughed and laughed.A few days later (July 17th, to be exact), we went for a ton of interesting sustainability workshops, good food, awesome live music and contra dancing at Solarfest. Above, Leslie is leading us on a 'weed walk,' where we learned a lot about the medicinal uses of wildflowers like yarrow and stinging nettle.And of course, we spent most of each day in the garden:You will notice that we were way behind in the planting, and there's a very unfortunate reason for that. At any rate, everything got put in the ground eventually and we're hoping for the best.This is why they're called polebeans. Paul showed us how to lash, and then Birch Bark Jim (he's the best, I wish I'd gotten a picture of him) helped us construct the tee-pees. That was the most fun I've had in the garden so far.More photos soon!

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Eastern Europe retroblog: back to Budapest

Kate enjoyed her freshly squeezed orange juice at a sidewalk café.
You know that stage in every trip when you realize you are 100% ready to be home again? Hopefully you don't reach that point any more than a day or two before your scheduled departure date; but in our case we'd been traveling for five weeks and Kate had been missing her right arm for nearly two [we'd said goodbye to Elliot in Sarajevo], so I think we reached it as soon as we got back to Budapest.I started writing about some of the minorly unpleasant things that happened over those last couple of days, but I think I'll just show you some nice pictures and be done with it!

Exterior and interior shots of the Great Synagogue (Kate took the latter); a pretty fountain sculpture in a city park; a wonderfully atmospheric old shopping arcade; me at the same sidewalk café, having the most delicious coffee (with honey!) ever.And that concludes my Eastern Europe retroblog. We're going to Peru for three weeks next month, so there'll be plenty more travel photos coming soon!

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Harmony Homestead Dispatch #5

Sorry if I've been a deadbeat blogger lately--between farm life and all the fun stuff we do in between, there isn't much time left for puttering around on the internet (which, if I'm being honest, is what I'm always doing at home). Anyway, here's what we got up to last Thursday evening:Circus Smirkus is a circus run and performed by children and teenagers. I can't tell you how amazing they are--it's like a professional show, so much so that you keep regretting your wasted youth (dude, I was watching Gilligan's Island all summer) even as you are continually delighted by the spectacle. If you ever get a chance to see one of their shows, don't miss it.Clown noses come with your ticket. Me and my new little bro Nick.

These acrobats are like fifteen. Holy moly!
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Harmony Homestead Dispatch #4

Lavender and nasturtiums for sale at the Sunday farmers' market in Dorset.Shots from the garden: the polebeans I planted my second day here (much taller since I took this pic); tomatoes; rhubarb (Gail makes the most amazing rhubarb peach crisp--I'm going to blog the recipe!); zucchini (hoping to make fritters out of the flowers, I'll let you know how that goes).

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